Concept & History

Omega has served as the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games since 1932. Tokyo 2020 marked its 29th appearance in this role. To commemorate the occasion, this special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M was created and unveiled 100 days before the start of the Games. The color scheme echoes the design of the Games’ emblem. The model 522.30.42.20.04.001 was not a limited edition. The reference to the event is subtle: neither the dial nor the case bears any indication of the Games; only the sapphire crystal caseback displays the emblem. It first went on sale in 2021.

Caliber & Technology

Inside, the watch is powered by the Caliber 8800, an automatic movement with a Co-Axial escapement and double-sided winding. The frequency is 25,200 A/h, and the power reserve is 55 hours. The Co-Axial design reduces friction in the escapement. The movement is certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. The design features a free-sprung balance wheel and a silicon balance spring. The finishing includes a rhodium-plated surface and Geneva stripes in an arabesque pattern. The sapphire crystal case back with NAIAD-Lock provides a clear view of the movement.

Case & Material

The case measures 42 mm in diameter and is made of stainless steel. Satin-finished surfaces alternate with polished bevels. The case thickness is 13.56 mm, and the lug-to-lug width is 49.90 mm. The unidirectional rotating bezel features a blue ceramic insert with a diving scale in white enamel. The helium escape valve is located at 10 o’clock, and the crown is screw-down. Water resistance is 300 m. The lug width is 20 mm. The stainless steel bracelet ends in a folding clasp with fine adjustment and a diver’s extension. The watch offered here is in very good condition and comes as a full set.

Aesthetics & Readability

The dial is made of white ceramic with a laser-engraved wave pattern. The applied hour markers and hands are blued and coated with Super-LumiNova. The “Seamaster” lettering is in red. The date window is located at 6 o’clock. The contrast between the light background and the blue elements ensures excellent readability even in low light. The domed sapphire crystal is anti-reflective on both sides.

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Der Beitrag OMEGA | Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Tokyo 2020 | Ref. 522.30.42.20.04.001 (52230422004001) – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

Rolex introduced the Datejust in 1945. A hallmark of the line is the date display in the window at the 3 o'clock position. The reference 126234 represents the current-generation Datejust 36. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235 in the 36-mm line. Rolex markets the combination of Oystersteel and white gold under the name White Rolesor. This particular model was first sold in September 2020.

Caliber & Technology

The case houses the in-house caliber 3235. Winding is performed on both sides via the Perpetual rotor. The power reserve is 70 hours. The balance wheel oscillates at 28,800 half-oscillations per hour and is mounted on 31 jewels. Rolex incorporates the Chronergy escapement, the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, and the Paraflex shock protection system. Fine adjustment is handled by Microstella nuts on the balance wheel with variable inertia. As a Superlative Chronometer, the movement is certified to -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. The date with quick-set function and a seconds stop are among the features.

Case & Material

The Oyster case measures 36 mm in diameter. It is crafted from Oystersteel, and the middle section is machined from a single block. The case back and crown are screw-down, and the crown features the Twinlock system. This results in a water resistance of 100 m. The fluted bezel is made of 18-karat white gold. The sapphire crystal is scratch-resistant and features the Cyclops lens above the date. This model is fitted with the three-row Oyster bracelet made of Oystersteel with a folding clasp. The case sides and bracelet surfaces have a satin finish.

Aesthetics & Readability

The dial is blue and features applied baton indices. The hands and hour indices are polished and coated with luminescent material. They stand out clearly against the blue background. The minute track along the edge defines the dial without any additional markings. The date window is located at 3 o’clock and is magnified by the Cyclops lens. The fluted white gold bezel provides a light-colored frame around the dark dial background. The watch is in very good condition: minimal signs of wear on the clasp and case back; the crystal is flawless. The package includes a full set.

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Der Beitrag ROLEX | Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Blaues Zifferblatt | Ref. 126234 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

In 1994, the Lange 1 was one of the four founding models of the reestablished manufactory. Its off-center dial layout has defined the brand’s appearance ever since. In 2005, A. Lange & Söhne expanded the collection with the Lange 1 Time Zone. It features a rotating city ring and a second time display for travelers—while retaining the characteristic layout of the Lange 1. In addition to yellow gold, the Lange 1 Time Zone was also available in red gold and platinum from the very beginning. The reference 116.021 in yellow gold with a champagne-colored dial was part of this introductory series and was produced until 2017. The example offered here was first sold in 2007.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the in-house caliber L031.1. It is a hand-wound movement with a double barrel. The power reserve is 72 hours, and the balance wheel frequency is 21,600 vibrations per hour. The caliber consists of 417 components. It features a three-quarter plate made of natural nickel silver and screw-mounted gold chatons. The balance cock is hand-engraved and equipped with a swan-neck fine-adjustment mechanism. The Glashütte ribbing and guilloché pattern are visible through the sapphire crystal case back. A pusher at 8 o’clock advances the city ring. This synchronizes the home time display with the respective day/night indicator. A seconds stop facilitates precise time setting. In 2026, the watch underwent a complete movement service with component replacement at A. Lange & Söhne. This is documented by the enclosed service receipt.

Case & Material

The case is made of 18-karat yellow gold. The diameter is 41.9 mm, and the case thickness is 11 mm. It is water-resistant to 3 bar. The case back is secured with six screws and is made of sapphire crystal, offering a view of the movement. The bezel is polished and contrasts with the satin-finished center section. The watch is fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a yellow gold pin buckle.

Aesthetics & Readability

The dial is champagne-colored and crafted from solid silver. The hour and minute hands are off-center in the upper left section. Below them is the small seconds sub-dial. To the right of it is the large date window. The outer city ring features 24 reference locations. At 5 o’clock, a second sub-dial displays the time zone with a day/night indicator. Between 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock is the power reserve indicator in the form of a scale. Gold Roman numerals mark XII, IX, and III. Applied hour markers complete the design. There are no luminescent elements.

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Der Beitrag A. LANGE & SÖHNE | Lange 1 Zeitzone Time Zone Gelbgold | Ref. 116.021 – Lange Service 07/2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The reference 116520 marked the Cosmograph Daytona’s transition to a fully in-house chronograph caliber in 2000, replacing the predecessor reference 16520 with its modified Zenith El Primero movement. The new concept was unveiled in March 2000 at the Basel Watch Fair; the switch from a third-party chronograph movement to an in-house one ranks among the most significant technical milestones in the Daytona’s model history. The 116520, with its stainless steel tachymeter bezel, remained in the lineup until it was replaced by the Cerachrom bezel of the 116500LN in 2016. The example offered here features the white dial with silver sub-dial rings that was offered in parallel for this reference.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 4130, Rolex’s first self-winding chronograph movement developed entirely in-house. The vertical clutch and the direct coupling of the minute and hour counters significantly reduce the number of components compared to traditional chronograph designs. The caliber consists of 290 components and is fitted with 44 jewels. The movement features a Parachrom hairspring, is C.O.S.C.-certified, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Case & Material

The 40 mm case is made of 904L stainless steel, referred to by Rolex as Oystersteel. The crown is a Triplock screw-down crown, and the chronograph pushers are screw-down. The case back is solid and unmarked. The lug-to-lug width is approximately 47 mm with a case thickness of just over 12 mm, making the watch comparatively slim on the wrist for a chronograph. Combined with the stainless steel tachymeter bezel, the model is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Aesthetics & Readability

The white dial features three sub-dials—a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 3 o’clock, and a continuous seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock—with silver totalizer rings whose fine concentric guilloché pattern, along with black numerals and hour markers, visually set them apart from the white dial background. The word “DAYTONA” appears in red above the lower totalizer. The hour indices and hands are coated with luminescent material, and the chronograph seconds hand is accented in black. This watch shows clear signs of wear that do not impair its function, as would be expected for a model that has been in use since 2014.

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Der Beitrag ROLEX | Cosmograph Daytona Weißes Zifferblatt | Ref. 116520 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The World Time Moon “175th Anniversary” was introduced in 2014 to mark Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary and was produced in a limited edition of 1,300 pieces. Reference 5575G-001 is the first model in the Manufacture’s history to combine the classic world time function designed by Louis Cottier with a moon phase display. The world time complication itself dates back to the 1930s; Patek Philippe patented it in 1959 and established it as a distinct category through references such as the 2523. On the rotating city disc of the 5575G-001, “Geneva” replaces the usual mention of Paris—a distinctive feature of this year’s anniversary references.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the 240 HU LU caliber, an ultra-thin automatic movement based on the Caliber 240 introduced in 2000, equipped with a 22-karat gold micro-rotor. The movement features 35 jewels, a free-sprung Gyromax balance wheel, and operates at a frequency of 21,600 A/h (3 Hz). The power reserve is 48 hours. A pusher at 10 o’clock allows the local time display to be adjusted by the hour independently of the minute and second displays, as is characteristic of the world time complication designed by Louis Cottier.

Case & Material

The case, crafted from 18-karat white gold, measures 39.8 mm in diameter and features the curved Lyra lugs characteristic of this model. The solid case back is engraved with “175e Anniversaire 1839–2014.” The sapphire crystal is slightly domed, and the watch is water-resistant to 3 ATM. The black alligator leather strap is hand-stitched and fitted with a white gold folding clasp, which also bears the anniversary engraving “Patek Philippe 1839–2014.” The lug width and strap dimensions correspond to the factory specifications for this reference.

Aesthetics & Readability

The multi-layered black dial combines a rotating 24-city scale with a day-night indicator and a central, photorealistic moon phase display set against a star-studded background. The hours and minutes are indicated by star-shaped white gold hands that evoke the Southern Cross constellation. The local time is always displayed at 12 o’clock, while eastern and western time zones are arranged on either side. Despite the high density of information, the combination of the city ring, day-night segment, and central moon phase display ensures clear readability of the respective local time.

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Der Beitrag Patek Philippe | World Time Moon 175th Anniversary | Ref. 5575G-001 – Full Set – NOS erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The TAG Heuer Monaco was introduced in 1969 as the first water-resistant automatic chronograph in a square case and was named after the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix; production ended in the mid-1970s. In 1998, a limited-edition reissue CS2110, limited to 5,000 pieces, featuring “Heuer”-only lettering, followed. The CS2111 replaced it in 1999 with a redesigned Tricompax dial and was added to the permanent collection before later continuing as the CW2111 with the “TAG Heuer” signature. Among experts, this second generation of reissues is also known as the “Heuer Re-Edition.”

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 17, based on the ETA 2894-2, a Swiss automatic movement with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 42 hours, according to the manufacturer. The chronograph features a Tricompax layout with a small seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, as well as a date display at 6 o’clock with quick-set functionality. The movement is equipped with an Incabloc shock protection system, and the hacking seconds function allows for precise time setting. The caliber features 37 jewels. The chronograph module can only be serviced by the manufacturer.

Case & Material

The square case, made of stainless steel, measures 38 mm and is sealed with a case back secured by four screws. The crown is flanked on both sides by the chronograph pushers. A plastic crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 3 ATM. The lug width is 22 mm. The total length (lug-to-lug) is 47 mm, with a case height of 13 mm. This example is equipped with the rare original stainless steel bracelet from TAG Heuer—a departure from the standard leather strap that sets this example apart from the majority of CS2111 models available on the market.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial features applied, faceted hour markers and luminescent material on the hands and hour markers for excellent readability in low light. The white minute track frames the Tricompax sub-dials, which stand out clearly against the dark dial background. The polished hour and minute hands, with their tapered bar shape, further contrast with the central white chronograph hand. The date window at 6 o’clock blends discreetly into the symmetrical dial design. The stainless steel bezel further frames the dial and emphasizes the clean, symmetrical lines of the case design.

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Der Beitrag TAG HEUER | MONACO Chronograph Automatik Edelstahlband | Ref. CS2111 – Full Set – Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The Premier line dates back to 1943, when Willy Breitling first introduced a model that broke away from the classic tool watch—a chronograph with high standards of elegance and comfort. With the collection’s revival in 2018 came the Premier B01 Chronograph 42: An in-house caliber replaced the third-party movements previously used, positioning the series as a distinct statement within the brand. This reference, AB0118371B1P2, with its reverse panda dial, is among the most sought-after models in the series.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 01, a fully integrated chronograph movement manufactured in-house with column wheel control and vertical clutch. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the automatic movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours and is certified by the COSC as a chronometer. The finishing includes Côtes de Genève on the bridges, anglage on the edges, and perlage on the mainplate, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch is water-resistant to 10 bar.

Case & Material

The case made of Stainless steel measures 42 mm im Durchmesser bei einer Bauhöhe von 13,65 mm und bleibt damit für einen Chronographen vergleichsweise flach. Die Anstoßbreite beträgt 22 mm. Ein gewölbtes, beidseitig entspiegeltes Saphirglas schützt das Zifferblatt, während der Sichtboden aus planem Saphirglas den Blick auf das Kaliber freigibt. Seitliche Kannelierung am Gehäuse zitiert die Formensprache der frühen Premier-Modelle, poliert-satinierte Flächenkontraste an den Gehäuseflanken unterstreichen den Anspruch an feine Verarbeitung. Das schwarze Alligatorlederband mit Dornschließe ergänzt den klassisch gehaltenen Auftritt.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial, featuring a reverse-panda design, is set off by two light-colored sub-dials arranged in a bicompax layout, creating a clear contrast with the rest of the dial. Rectangular chronograph pushers and the distinctive crown shape echo details from the early Premier models of the 1940s. A finely crafted railway-track minute ring along the periphery of the dial enhances readability. Applied hour markers and faceted hands ensure good readability under varying light conditions without compromising the dial’s understated design.

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Der Beitrag BREITLING | Premier B01 Chronograph 42 | Ref. AB0118371B1P2 – Full Set – NOS erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Since 1993, the Diver 300M series has been the backbone of OMEGA’s professional diving watches and was originally associated with free diver Roland Specker, who set a world record wearing this model. The reference in question, 210.30.42. 20.06.001 belongs to the generation produced since 2019 featuring a ceramic dial and was redesigned in conjunction with the introduction of the METAS-certified Master Chronometer calibers. The helium escape valve reflects the original design for saturation divers and remains a structural feature of the series to this day.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 8800, a self-winding Co-Axial movement with a silicon balance spring, a free-springing balance, and double-sided winding. The power reserve is 55 hours at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour and with 35 jewels. As a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, the movement withstands magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss, which virtually eliminates any interference from smartphones or speakers. The finishing includes rhodium-plated bridges with Geneva stripes in an arabesque pattern, visible through the glass, wave-shaped case back.

Case & Material

The case, made of stainless steel, measures 42 mm in diameter, is 13.6 mm thick, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional bezel features a blue ceramic insert with a white enamel scale for measuring dive time. The crown and case back are screw-down, and the sapphire crystal is anti-reflective on both sides and scratch-resistant. The finish combines satin-finished and high-gloss polished surfaces. The stainless steel bracelet fastens with a folding clasp featuring a push-button mechanism and an integrated extension link for a diving suit; the lug width is 20 mm.

Aesthetics & Readability

The gray ceramic dial features the series’ signature wavy relief pattern, combined with blue-burnished skeleton hands and raised hour markers. Both are filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent readability even underwater and in the dark. The date window is classically positioned at 6 o’clock, and the dot indices are surrounded by a minute track along the outer edge of the dial. The combination of a gray dial and a blue bezel sets it apart visually from the standard versions in black or blue.

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Der Beitrag OMEGA | Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer | Ref. 210.30.42.20.06.001 (21030422006001) – Full Set – Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The Explorer line dates back to 1953 and, from the very beginning, combined expedition-ready functionality with a deliberately minimalist design. The model 114270 was introduced in 2001, replacing the 14270; it remained in production until 2010. The historic case size of 36 mm was retained, while a more modern movement, solid end links on the bracelet, and a dial design refined in its details were introduced compared to its direct predecessor.

Caliber & Technology

Inside, the watch is powered by the 3130 automatic caliber, entirely manufactured by Rolex, featuring 31 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. A shock- and temperature-resistant Parachrom hairspring, along with a balance bridge instead of a single-sided balance cock, enhance the movement’s stability. The power reserve is approximately 48 hours. The movement is COSC-certified and features a seconds stop, which allows for time setting accurate to the second.

Case & Material

The case is made of Oystersteel (904L) and measures 36 mm in diameter. A screw-down Twinlock crown and a solid, screw-down case back ensure water resistance to 100 m. The smooth, polished bezel and the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an uncoated surface underscore the tool-like character of the design. The watch is worn on an Oyster bracelet made of the same material, featuring an Oysterlock folding clasp and an Easylink extension.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial features the characteristic luminous numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, as well as applied indices in white gold. Mercedes-style hands and a flat luminous coating ensure excellent readability even in low light. The condition is rated "Very Good": the crystal is flawless, with only minimal signs of wear. A service performed in 2026 at WEMPE and documented with a receipt underscores the watch’s well-maintained overall technical condition.

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Der Beitrag ROLEX | Explorer I 36 mm | Ref. 114270 – WEMPE-Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Konzeption

The Chronomaster T Open Concept represents a logical evolution of the classic El Primero range. Instead of a solid dial, an open skeletonised structure reveals the movement – a design approach that allows the mechanical complexity of the calibre to be experienced directly, without relying on decorative elements.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the El Primero 4021 automatic calibre, with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). This high frequency enables the measurement of tenths of a second – a unique feature that has distinguished the El Primero since its launch in 1969. The power reserve is 55 hours; the remaining time can be read via an indicator at six o’clock. A cut-out in the dial reveals the escapement. Shock protection: Incabloc. Finishing: Perlage and Côtes de Genève on the rotor.

Case & Material

Case diameter: 40 mm. Material: titanium. Thickness: 10.5 mm. Sapphire crystal on both sides; the see-through case back allows the movement’s finishing to be viewed. Water resistance: 3 ATM. Strap: textured carbon fibre strap with a triple-fold clasp in titanium.

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Der Beitrag Zenith | ChronoMaster T Open Concept Titan Transparentes TR90 / Silber skelettiert | Ref. 95.0240.4021/77.C608 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.