Concept & History

Die Chronomat-Baureihe wurde 1984 anlässlich des hundertjährigen Firmenjubiläums von Breitling vorgestellt und markierte die Rückkehr des Hauses zum mechanischen Chronographen, nachdem in den Jahren zuvor Quarzkaliber den Markt dominiert hatten. Grundlage war ein 1983 gemeinsam mit der italienischen Kunstflugstaffel Frecce Tricolori entwickelter Chronograph, dessen robuste Auslegung bis heute die Formensprache der Baureihe prägt. Die aktuelle Generation Chronomat B01 42 führt dieses Konzept mit dem hauseigenen Manufakturwerk fort; die vorliegende Referenz AB0134101L2S1 mit grünem Zifferblatt gehört zur laufenden Kollektion und wurde im September 2025 erstmalig verkauft.

Caliber & Technology

Angetrieben wird das Modell vom Manufakturkaliber Kaliber B01, einem Automatikwerk aus eigener Breitling-Fertigung mit Chronographen Funktion. Das Werk trägt die COSC-Chronometer Zertifizierung und verfügt über eine Gangreserve von 70 hours. Die Chronographen Funktion wird über drei Hilfszifferblätter angezeigt (Sekunden-, 30-Minuten- und 12-Stunden-Zähler), ergänzt um eine Datumsanzeige bei 6 Uhr. Start, Stopp und Rückstellung erfolgen über die beiden seitlichen Drücker. Die Wasserdichtigkeit beträgt 200 Meter (20 ATM), die verschraubte Krone unterstreicht die technische Auslegung für den Alltagseinsatz.

Case & Material

The case made of Stainless steel measures 42 mm im Durchmesser und trägt die unidirektional drehbare Chronomat-Lünette mit den vier Rider Tabs und spürbarer Rasterung. Das Saphirglas schützt das Zifferblatt vor Kratzern. Getragen wird die Uhr am grünen Kautschukband im Rouleaux-Design mit Faltschließe aus Edelstahl und Push-Button-Mechanismus. Das vorliegende Exemplar wird im Zustand Neu/Ungetragen mit vollständigem Lieferumfang (Full Set) angeboten und verfügt über eine bis September 2030 laufende Herstellergarantie.

Aesthetics & Readability

Das grüne Zifferblatt kontrastiert mit den drei schwarzen Hilfszifferblättern und sorgt für eine klare optische Trennung der Anzeigen. Stundenindizes und Zeiger sind in Silber gehalten und mit Leuchtmasse versehen, was die Ablesbarkeit bei schwachem Licht verbessert. Die Tachymeterskala am äußeren Zifferblattrand ergänzt die Chronographen Funktion um eine Geschwindigkeitsmessung. In der Gesamtwirkung zeigt sich ein sportlich-technischer Charakter, der die Herkunft aus dem Chronomat-Programm klar erkennbar macht und sich im Alltag wie im professionellen Einsatz gleichermaßen bewährt.

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Der Beitrag BREITLING | Chronomat B01 42 Grün | Ref. AB0134101L2S1 – Full Set – NOS erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The reference 126613LB was introduced in 2020 as the successor to the reference 116613LB and marks the transition of the two-tone Yellow Rolesor Submariner line to the larger 41-mm case and the Caliber 3235. Among collectors, this combination of Oystersteel, yellow gold, and a blue dial has come to be known as the “Bluesy,” a nickname that refers to the two-tone version of the Submariner Date with a blue dial. The Submariner series itself dates back to 1953 and is one of the first wristwatches in watchmaking history designed for professional diving.

Caliber & Technology

This model is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, an automatic movement with a bidirectional rotor developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex. The Chronergy escapement, made of paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus, enhances efficiency, while the blue Parachrom hairspring with a Rolex-specific terminal curve ensures shock resistance and immunity to magnetic fields. Regulation is achieved via four gold Microstella nuts on the solid balance bridge. The power reserve is 70 hours, and the frequency is 28,800 vibrations per hour. Certified as a Superlative Chronometer, the movement maintains a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day after calibration.

Case & Material

The Oyster case, crafted from Oystersteel and yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor), measures 41 mm in diameter and features a monobloc middle case with a screw-down case back and a screw-down Triplock crown. The unidirectional rotating bezel features a blue Cerachrom ceramic insert with gold-plated scales and numerals; the 60-minute scale allows for precise reading of elapsed dive times. This design ensures water resistance to 300 meters. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides and a Cyclops lens over the date protects the dial.

Aesthetics & Readability

The Royal Blue dial features Mercedes- and Breguet-style hour and minute hands with Chromalight luminescent material, as do the applied hour markers framed in yellow gold, which match the color of the two-tone case. The long-lasting blue Chromalight coating ensures excellent readability of the time and dive time even in low light and underwater. The three-piece Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock folding clasp and Glidelock fine-adjustment system completes the technically oriented appearance of this very well-preserved example.

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Der Beitrag ROLEX | Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date Stahl/Gold Rolesor Bluesy | Ref. 126613LB – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

In the mid-1990s, following the privatization of the manufactory, which was completed in 1994, Glashütte Original launched the Sport Chronograph, a distinct line featuring a faceted case and an engraved tachymeter bezel. The early series was powered by the in-house Caliber 10-60, which is based on the 10-30 automatic movement developed while the company was still in the GDR. This particular watch, with an initial sale date of December 2001, is equipped with this caliber.

Caliber & Technology

Power is provided by the automatic in-house caliber 10-60 with 48 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, and eccentric fine adjustment. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the movement offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The chronograph function measures time via a central stop-seconds hand and two sub-dials, supplemented by a seconds stop for precise time setting. Even the rotor’s ball bearings are manufactured in-house. An eight-screw sapphire crystal case back offers a view of the finely finished movement.

Case & Material

The stainless steel case measures 42.5 mm in diameter and is 13.6 mm thick. The faceted bezel features an engraved tachymeter scale, and the crystal is made of sapphire. The crown and case back are screw-down; the case back is secured with eight screws and is also made of sapphire. The watch is water-resistant to 10 ATM. This particular example features a retrofitted stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp in place of the original leather strap.

Aesthetics & Readability

The white dial features applied, tapered triangular hour markers, as well as hour and minute hands in a tapered bar shape. Two sub-dials for the stop-second hand and the 30-minute counter break up the dial without compromising readability. The engraved tachymeter scale on the bezel emphasizes the watch’s sporty look. High-contrast black lettering on a light background, combined with polished hands, ensures excellent readability in daylight.

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Der Beitrag Glashütte Original | Sport Chronograph Senior Weißes Zifferblatt | Ref. 10-66-18-10-04 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The TAG Heuer Monaco was introduced in 1969 as the first water-resistant automatic chronograph in a square case and was named after the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix; production ended in the mid-1970s. In 1998, a limited-edition reissue CS2110, limited to 5,000 pieces, featuring “Heuer”-only lettering, followed. The CS2111 replaced it in 1999 with a redesigned Tricompax dial and was added to the permanent collection before later continuing as the CW2111 with the “TAG Heuer” signature. Among experts, this second generation of reissues is also known as the “Heuer Re-Edition.”

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 17, based on the ETA 2894-2, a Swiss automatic movement with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 42 hours, according to the manufacturer. The chronograph features a Tricompax layout with a small seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, as well as a date display at 6 o’clock with quick-set functionality. The movement is equipped with an Incabloc shock protection system, and the hacking seconds function allows for precise time setting. The caliber features 37 jewels. The chronograph module can only be serviced by the manufacturer.

Case & Material

The square case, made of stainless steel, measures 38 mm and is sealed with a case back secured by four screws. The crown is flanked on both sides by the chronograph pushers. A plastic crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 3 ATM. The lug width is 22 mm. The total length (lug-to-lug) is 47 mm, with a case height of 13 mm. This example is equipped with the rare original stainless steel bracelet from TAG Heuer—a departure from the standard leather strap that sets this example apart from the majority of CS2111 models available on the market.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial features applied, faceted hour markers and luminescent material on the hands and hour markers for excellent readability in low light. The white minute track frames the Tricompax sub-dials, which stand out clearly against the dark dial background. The polished hour and minute hands, with their tapered bar shape, further contrast with the central white chronograph hand. The date window at 6 o’clock blends discreetly into the symmetrical dial design. The stainless steel bezel further frames the dial and emphasizes the clean, symmetrical lines of the case design.

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Der Beitrag TAG HEUER | MONACO Chronograph Automatik Edelstahlband | Ref. CS2111 – Full Set – Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The Premier line dates back to 1943, when Willy Breitling first introduced a model that broke away from the classic tool watch—a chronograph with high standards of elegance and comfort. With the collection’s revival in 2018 came the Premier B01 Chronograph 42: An in-house caliber replaced the third-party movements previously used, positioning the series as a distinct statement within the brand. This reference, AB0118371B1P2, with its reverse panda dial, is among the most sought-after models in the series.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 01, a fully integrated chronograph movement manufactured in-house with column wheel control and vertical clutch. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the automatic movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours and is certified by the COSC as a chronometer. The finishing includes Côtes de Genève on the bridges, anglage on the edges, and perlage on the mainplate, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch is water-resistant to 10 bar.

Case & Material

The case made of Stainless steel measures 42 mm im Durchmesser bei einer Bauhöhe von 13,65 mm und bleibt damit für einen Chronographen vergleichsweise flach. Die Anstoßbreite beträgt 22 mm. Ein gewölbtes, beidseitig entspiegeltes Saphirglas schützt das Zifferblatt, während der Sichtboden aus planem Saphirglas den Blick auf das Kaliber freigibt. Seitliche Kannelierung am Gehäuse zitiert die Formensprache der frühen Premier-Modelle, poliert-satinierte Flächenkontraste an den Gehäuseflanken unterstreichen den Anspruch an feine Verarbeitung. Das schwarze Alligatorlederband mit Dornschließe ergänzt den klassisch gehaltenen Auftritt.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial, featuring a reverse-panda design, is set off by two light-colored sub-dials arranged in a bicompax layout, creating a clear contrast with the rest of the dial. Rectangular chronograph pushers and the distinctive crown shape echo details from the early Premier models of the 1940s. A finely crafted railway-track minute ring along the periphery of the dial enhances readability. Applied hour markers and faceted hands ensure good readability under varying light conditions without compromising the dial’s understated design.

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Der Beitrag BREITLING | Premier B01 Chronograph 42 | Ref. AB0118371B1P2 – Full Set – NOS erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Since 1993, the Diver 300M series has been the backbone of OMEGA’s professional diving watches and was originally associated with free diver Roland Specker, who set a world record wearing this model. The reference in question, 210.30.42. 20.06.001 belongs to the generation produced since 2019 featuring a ceramic dial and was redesigned in conjunction with the introduction of the METAS-certified Master Chronometer calibers. The helium escape valve reflects the original design for saturation divers and remains a structural feature of the series to this day.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the Caliber 8800, a self-winding Co-Axial movement with a silicon balance spring, a free-springing balance, and double-sided winding. The power reserve is 55 hours at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour and with 35 jewels. As a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, the movement withstands magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss, which virtually eliminates any interference from smartphones or speakers. The finishing includes rhodium-plated bridges with Geneva stripes in an arabesque pattern, visible through the glass, wave-shaped case back.

Case & Material

The case, made of stainless steel, measures 42 mm in diameter, is 13.6 mm thick, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional bezel features a blue ceramic insert with a white enamel scale for measuring dive time. The crown and case back are screw-down, and the sapphire crystal is anti-reflective on both sides and scratch-resistant. The finish combines satin-finished and high-gloss polished surfaces. The stainless steel bracelet fastens with a folding clasp featuring a push-button mechanism and an integrated extension link for a diving suit; the lug width is 20 mm.

Aesthetics & Readability

The gray ceramic dial features the series’ signature wavy relief pattern, combined with blue-burnished skeleton hands and raised hour markers. Both are filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent readability even underwater and in the dark. The date window is classically positioned at 6 o’clock, and the dot indices are surrounded by a minute track along the outer edge of the dial. The combination of a gray dial and a blue bezel sets it apart visually from the standard versions in black or blue.

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Der Beitrag OMEGA | Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer | Ref. 210.30.42.20.06.001 (21030422006001) – Full Set – Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The Explorer line dates back to 1953 and, from the very beginning, combined expedition-ready functionality with a deliberately minimalist design. The model 114270 was introduced in 2001, replacing the 14270; it remained in production until 2010. The historic case size of 36 mm was retained, while a more modern movement, solid end links on the bracelet, and a dial design refined in its details were introduced compared to its direct predecessor.

Caliber & Technology

Inside, the watch is powered by the 3130 automatic caliber, entirely manufactured by Rolex, featuring 31 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. A shock- and temperature-resistant Parachrom hairspring, along with a balance bridge instead of a single-sided balance cock, enhance the movement’s stability. The power reserve is approximately 48 hours. The movement is COSC-certified and features a seconds stop, which allows for time setting accurate to the second.

Case & Material

The case is made of Oystersteel (904L) and measures 36 mm in diameter. A screw-down Twinlock crown and a solid, screw-down case back ensure water resistance to 100 m. The smooth, polished bezel and the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an uncoated surface underscore the tool-like character of the design. The watch is worn on an Oyster bracelet made of the same material, featuring an Oysterlock folding clasp and an Easylink extension.

Aesthetics & Readability

The black dial features the characteristic luminous numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, as well as applied indices in white gold. Mercedes-style hands and a flat luminous coating ensure excellent readability even in low light. The condition is rated "Very Good": the crystal is flawless, with only minimal signs of wear. A service performed in 2026 at WEMPE and documented with a receipt underscores the watch’s well-maintained overall technical condition.

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Der Beitrag ROLEX | Explorer I 36 mm | Ref. 114270 – WEMPE-Service 2026 erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Konzeption

The Chronomaster T Open Concept represents a logical evolution of the classic El Primero range. Instead of a solid dial, an open skeletonised structure reveals the movement – a design approach that allows the mechanical complexity of the calibre to be experienced directly, without relying on decorative elements.

Caliber & Technology

The watch is powered by the El Primero 4021 automatic calibre, with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). This high frequency enables the measurement of tenths of a second – a unique feature that has distinguished the El Primero since its launch in 1969. The power reserve is 55 hours; the remaining time can be read via an indicator at six o’clock. A cut-out in the dial reveals the escapement. Shock protection: Incabloc. Finishing: Perlage and Côtes de Genève on the rotor.

Case & Material

Case diameter: 40 mm. Material: titanium. Thickness: 10.5 mm. Sapphire crystal on both sides; the see-through case back allows the movement’s finishing to be viewed. Water resistance: 3 ATM. Strap: textured carbon fibre strap with a triple-fold clasp in titanium.

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Der Beitrag Zenith | ChronoMaster T Open Concept Titan Transparentes TR90 / Silber skelettiert | Ref. 95.0240.4021/77.C608 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The model 47245 was launched in 2000 to mark the 245th anniversary of the manufacture’s founding and represents the introduction of the retrograde calendar display within the Patrimony collection. The design of the line follows the styling of slim men’s watches from the 1950s: fully polished surfaces, flat case contours, no sharp edges. The date and day of the week are displayed as separate, functionally distinct indicators on an asymmetrically structured dial – without any decorative embellishments.

Caliber & Technology

The Calibre 1126/1 is an automatic movement featuring 36 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. A 21-carat gold weight integrated into the rotor optimises winding efficiency. The rhodium-plated calibre has been tested in five positions for temperature, cold and isochronism and is protected by a shock-absorption system. The Fausses Côtes finish on the mainplate can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. The retrograde mechanism instantly returns to its starting position at the end of each month.

Case & Material

The two-piece, fully polished case, crafted from 18-carat white gold, measures 37 mm in diameter and has a thickness of 10.1 mm. Distinctive features include the downward-curving, fluted lugs and the stepped bezel with a smooth, polished finish. A date-setting pusher at 10 o’clock allows for manual date adjustment. The sapphire crystal case back, secured with four screws, offers a clear view of the calibre. The case is water-resistant to 30 metres.

Aesthetics & Readability

The textured silver dial features applied Roman numerals and round white gold hour markers for the odd-numbered hours. The retrograde date window spans the upper section of the dial between 9 and 3 o’clock; the recessed day-of-the-week subdial is positioned at 6 o’clock. Baton-shaped white gold hands indicate the hours and minutes. Despite two independent complication displays, the dial remains clearly structured and free from visual clutter.

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Der Beitrag Vacheron Constantin | Patrimony 31 Day Retrograde Weißgold | Ref. 47245 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.

Concept & History

The Saxon watchmaker is known for its distinctive, asymmetrical dial design, inspired by the Golden Ratio. The PanoMaticLunar model continues this tradition, combining complex display elements into a harmonious layout. The precise positioning of the time display, the panoramic date, and the moon phase follows strict mathematical proportions, lending the timekeeping a structured order. The reference 1-90-02-11-35-30 represents the pinnacle of German watchmaking and combines centuries-old traditional craftsmanship with contemporary construction methods of haute horlogerie.

Caliber & Technology

At the heart of the watch beats the automatic Caliber 90-02, which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and builds up a 42-hour power reserve. The in-house movement features the characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate with fine Côtes de Genève and a hand-engraved balance cock. A duplex swan-neck regulator enables highly precise adjustment of the amplitude and rate. Polished bevels, intricate perlage, and thermally blued screws attest to an excellent finish, which can be viewed through the case back.

Case & Material

Der Resonanzkörper der Komplikation wird aus massivem Red gold gefertigt und misst 40 mm in diameter with an overall height of 12.7 mm. Die Oberflächenstruktur wechselt elegant zwischen fein polierten Lünetten und satinierten Flanken. Das Saphirglas auf der Vorderseite ist beidseitig entspiegelt und schützt das Zifferblatt vor Reflexionen. Der Saphirglasboden gibt den Blick auf das hochveredelte Werk frei. Die Konstruktion garantiert eine Wasserdichtigkeit von 5 ATM. Gehalten wird der Zeitmesser von einem Louisiana-Alligatorlederband mit einer Faltschließe aus Red gold.

Aesthetics & Readability

The electroplated blue dial is manufactured in the brand’s in-house dial workshop in Pforzheim. The off-center sub-dials for hours, minutes, and the small seconds are guilloché-engraved with a delicate record-style pattern. Applied indices made of rose gold ensure maximum clarity in combination with the asymmetrical layout. The moon phase display matches the deep blue dial, while the large-format panoramic date, featuring white numerals on a blue background, ensures clear legibility without a distracting central bar.

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Der Beitrag Glashütte Original | PanoMaticLunar Rotgold Blaues Zifferblatt | Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-30 – Full Set erschien zuerst auf UHREN-FAN.DE.